Marlborough’s 2023 vintage “could have gone so wrong and came out so well”, says Astrolabe Winemaker Simon Waghorn. “Every winemaker I’ve spoken to is pretty excited and also a bit bemused.”

Despite the perils of a wet and cool spring and summer, harvest was “magic” across the board, thanks largely to a lingering harvest under optimal autumnal conditions, he adds. “I think all the varieties have benefitted from more time on the vines and ripening a bit later.”

Marlborough’s 2022 vintage was “edge-of-your-seat” stuff, with higher yields, inclement weather and the impact of Covid infections on crews, says Sophie Parker-Thomson, MW.

And it required a change in mindset from industry, following three consecutive drought years and light crops last year. “There has been a temptation to replenish the very empty pipelines with the bountiful yields - principally Sauvignon Blanc,” says Sophie, who owns and runs Blank Canvas Wines with her husband Matt Thomson.

Marlborough’s 2021 vintage story is one of low crops and “exceptional” wines, according to Forrest Estate General Manager Beth Forrest. “For me it was the year for Sauvignon Blanc,” says the winemaker, describing the complexity of Marlborough’s flagship variety. “They were overly aromatic and beautiful, with multi-layered flavour levels as well.

Plant & Food Research weather expert Rob Agnew says lower yields were due to a variety of factors, including inclement flowering conditions, with Marlborough temperatures mostly lower than average from mid-November to the first week of December last year.

Marlborough wine companies are counting their luck, after harvesting the 2020 vintage amidst a national lockdown. But the vintage will be remembered for more than winery bubbles and Covid-19 precautions, with a benign season delivering excellent fruit.

“If you didn’t panic; if you weighed up your options and proceeded calmly, then you could make the most of an extremely good harvest - one of the best we’ve had,” says Dog Point viticulturist Nigel Sowman.

Vintage 2019 has been blessed with kind weather, excellent quality, low disease pressure and breathing space between varieties, says Villa Maria viticulturist Stuart Dudley on March 22, the day Villa launched into 24-hour mode in the vineyards and winery. “In general, from a quality point of view, things are looking great. Last year we were literally rushing around keeping an eye on the condition of fruit and making sure it was holding. Whereas this year we are just walking around looking at how good it all is.” Villa winemaker Helen Morrison puts it even more succinctly, when she says “yay for Vintage 2019!”